Vacation in the Shadow of Sharia - How the Taliban Are Opening Afghanistan to Tourists

Kabul, June 2025 - By motorcycle, camper van, bicycle, or scheduled flights from Istanbul and Dubai, they are arriving: curious travelers from Europe, adventure-seekers from Asia, globetrotters with GoPros and visas in their passports. They all want to visit a place that, until recently, was associated solely with war, the Taliban, and terror: Afghanistan. A country shaken by decades of bombings - now hoping to find salvation in tourism. The Taliban, back in power since August 2021 and still not recognized internationally, are greeting these guests with open arms. “The Afghan people are warm and wish to welcome tourists,” says Qudratullah Jamal, Deputy Minister of Tourism. In his interview with the Associated Press, he sounds like a PR spokesperson for a peaceful Himalayan kingdom: tourism brings economic growth, international understanding, even “spiritual benefits.” In reality, this is a remarkable balancing act - the Taliban government portraying itself as hospitable while continuing to ban Afghan women from parks, schools, and public life. Despite these contradictions, the visitors are coming: according to authorities, nearly 9,000 foreign tourists visited last year, and nearly 3,000 in the first quarter of 2025 alone. For Afghanistan, internationally isolated and economically depleted, this is a glimmer of hope. The Taliban are actively promoting the sector - with visas, training programs (for men only), and their own tourism academy. Journeys into the blue, literally: to the shimmering lakes of Band-e-Amir National Park or the cliffs of Bamiyan, where the giant Buddha statues once stood before being destroyed in 2001. Even that place is attracting visitors again - despite a deadly attack in May 2024 in which six people, including three Spanish tourists, were shot.

That the country has become safer is undisputed. The era of daily suicide bombings and explosions seems to be over. But Afghanistan is not safe. The Islamic State offshoot “ISKP” remains active. And state violence is still very real - especially for Afghan women. Women are barred from parks and gyms, banned from attending school beyond grade six, and prohibited from working in most professions. Beauty salons are outlawed, and face coverings are mandatory in many places. “An ethical dilemma,” some travelers call it. Others deliberately ignore it or want to see the situation for themselves. Like Illary Gomez from France and her British partner James Liddiard. They debated for a year whether their journey through Afghanistan was morally justifiable. Eventually, they went - and now report “warm encounters,” “impressive landscapes,” and a sense that their visit helped the people rather than supported the regime. “The money goes to the people, not to the government,” says Liddiard. Authorities appear willing to accept this ambiguity. While locals suffer under strict rules, foreign women are often allowed into parks as long as they wear a headscarf. Face coverings are rarely enforced in Kabul. Tourism as a showcase of tolerance - for foreigners, not for Afghans.

Tourism, says Qudratullah Jamal, is not only economically beneficial. It builds bridges, promotes “understanding and talent,” and reduces the “distance between peoples.” It is about cultural exchange, international relations - and yes, also about trade. What remains is the paradox of a country presenting itself as open to the world while suppressing half its population. Afghanistan is courting Western travelers - with hospitality, nature, and history. But anyone walking through Bamiyan or hiking up the Panjshir cannot ignore them: the ghosts of the past, the silence of the women, the invisible boundaries of the present. Anyone traveling here is also traveling between the lines.